Illustrative artwork — an impression of Camino Francés — the Pyrenees Start, not a literal photograph.
The Camino Francés begins with its hardest test: the Napoleon Route, a steep climb over the Pyrenees from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France to Roncesvalles in Spain. It's a single long day with no towns in between, so where you sleep is decided before you leave — a pilgrim hostel or gîte in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port the night before, then the large hostel at Roncesvalles waiting on the other side.
Why hike here
This stage earns its reputation before you're an hour in: a relentless climb out of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port through farmland and beech forest, then higher into open, treeless Pyrenean country where the wind picks up and the weather can turn in minutes. On a clear day the views stretch for miles in every direction — ridgelines rolling away in both directions, with a long, exposed track and no real shelter until you're well past the high point. Then the descent drops you back into beech woods on the Spanish side, and the trail spits you out at Roncesvalles, a cluster of stone buildings that has sheltered pilgrims for centuries. It's the kind of day that makes the whole idea of the Camino feel real — you've crossed a mountain range and an international border on foot, with weeks of walking still ahead before Santiago.
Getting there
Most hikers fly into a regional airport in southwest France or northern Spain — Biarritz is the closest French option — then make their way overland to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port by train and bus, often connecting through Bayonne. Once there, stop at the Pilgrims' Office to pick up your pilgrim credential before you set out; it's also where you'll get current advice on trail conditions and whether the high Napoleon Route or the lower Valcarlos valley route is open. From Roncesvalles, onward travel into the rest of Spain runs through Pamplona.
Where to stay
The realistic options, closest-to-the-trail first. Book through the official links — we don't list prices or availability because they change all the time.
Illustrative — evokes the setting, not a specific property. For example: Pilgrim albergues and gîtes in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port (France) and the great hostel at Roncesvalles (Spain)
Pilgrims starting the Camino Francés at its classic beginning.
Get your credential in St-Jean; the Roncesvalles hostel is the usual first night in Spain.
Pilgrim hostels (mostly first-come)For example: Small hotels and gîtes along the alternative valley route used in bad weather
Pilgrims when the high Napoleon route is closed.
If the high pass is closed, the Valcarlos valley route is the safe alternative.
Village lodgingPermits & rules
No permit is needed, but the high Napoleon Route over the Pyrenees is exposed and closes in winter and bad weather — when it is shut, take the lower Valcarlos valley route. This first stage is deceptively hard, with a long, steep climb and fast-changing mountain weather.
Gear you'll want for this trip
Matched to the terrain and conditions here. Real products — check current price on Amazon.
Common questions
Do I need to book a place to stay on this stage in advance?
In peak season, yes — book your first night in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and, if you can, your bed at Roncesvalles ahead of time, since the historic pilgrim hostel there fills fast. Outside the busiest months, many pilgrim hostels and gîtes along this stage still operate first-come, so arriving reasonably early in the day helps.
What happens if the Napoleon Route is closed?
The high mountain route closes in winter and during bad weather, and pilgrims are rerouted onto the lower Valcarlos valley path instead, which runs through villages with their own small hotels and gîtes. Check conditions at the Pilgrims' Office in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port before you start, and always be ready to switch routes if the weather turns.
Where do most pilgrims get their credential and spend the first night?
Most people pick up their pilgrim credential at the Pilgrims' Office in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port before setting out, then sleep there in a local albergue or gîte the night before the climb. After crossing the pass, the large historic hostel at Roncesvalles is the traditional first stop in Spain.
Complete gearsets for this trip
Full curated kits built for exactly this kind of hike — what to bring, why, and links to similar gear.
Lodging details are compiled from official parks, refuge associations and reservation systems and can change without notice. We publish no prices, availability or ratings — always confirm current information on the official site before booking or setting out. Product links are affiliate links: we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you; prices and availability are shown on Amazon. See our affiliate disclosure.