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Gearset · Hammock Camping

The hammock camping setup

Sleeping suspended between two trees is a different kind of comfortable — no rocks, roots or slope to fight. This setup walks through a complete hammock kit piece by piece: the hammock and suspension, the underquilt and top insulation that keep you warm, the tarp overhead, and the bug net that makes a summer night bearable.

Flat-lay illustration of a complete hammock camping setup kit
Why this setup

On the ground, your pad and tent floor fight rocks, roots and slope; a hammock and a good suspension handle all of that for you. What a hammock can't do alone is keep you warm — with open air on every side, insulation compresses flat under your weight and stops trapping heat, which is why an underquilt, or a pad used inside the hammock, matters as much as the hammock itself. Add a tarp for rain and a bug net for bugs, and you've replaced a whole ground shelter system with a few lighter pieces.

Who it's for

This setup suits hikers camping in forest with real trees to hang from — much of the eastern US and plenty of western corridors below treeline. It's a poor fit above treeline, in the desert, or wherever trees are scarce or spaced wrong; carry a backup plan for open stretches. Side sleepers who've never gotten comfortable on a pad are often the fastest converts.

How to build your own
  1. Pick a hammock and suspension built for tree camping, and check land-manager rules on what you can hang from.
  2. Solve warmth from below first — an underquilt or a pad rated for your expected low. Compressed insulation under your body stops working, so this step isn't optional.
  3. Add a top quilt or bag for warmth above, then a tarp sized to pitch low and tight against wind-driven rain.
  4. Clip in a bug net for the places that call for it, and always scout two solid, living trees before you commit to a site.

About this setup

Hammock camping wins converts on terrain that makes tent camping miserable — a rocky, rooty, sloped, or damp forest floor that would leave you finding every lump through your pad all night. Suspended between two trees, none of that matters; pitching a good site becomes about finding two trees instead of a flat patch of dirt. For a lot of people who've never slept well in a tent, a hammock is the first system that actually works.

The catch every beginner learns the hard way is warmth from below. Lie in a hammock with just a sleeping bag and no underquilt, and the bag's insulation compresses flat under your weight, stops trapping air, and lets the breeze underneath pull heat straight out of your back — hammock campers call it cold-butt syndrome. An underquilt hangs outside the fabric, uncompressed, keeping its full loft all night; a pad wedged inside is cheaper and more familiar, though it can shift and leave cold gaps if it's not sized right. Solving this isn't optional — it's the difference between a great night and a sleepless one.

Site selection is its own skill: two sturdy, living trees spaced so your suspension reaches comfortably, clear ground underneath, and no dead branches overhead — what hikers call widowmakers. Use wide, tree-friendly webbing rather than rope or wire, both to protect the bark and because many parks require it; check land-manager rules before you hang, since some areas restrict hammock camping outright. Carry a lightweight backup plan for any stretch where trees thin out.

The pack

You still need something to carry the hammock, suspension and insulation — but a hammock system often packs smaller than a comparable tent-and-pad setup.

Illustration of a 50-litre internal-frame backpacking backpack

Overnight backpack

Carries the hammock, suspension, insulation and the rest of your gear; skipping a tent floor and poles often means you need less volume than the same trip would take on the ground.

What to look for: A hip belt that genuinely carries weight, a torso length matched to you, and 35–45 L for a weekend — usually more compact than a tent-and-pad kit of the same duration.

Also pack
  • Pack rain cover or liner

Hammock & suspension

The hammock is the bed; the suspension is what makes it possible without harming the trees you're hanging from.

Illustration of a camping hammock with tree straps

Camping hammock

Your bed for the night — a fabric or mesh hammock strung between two trees, cradling your whole body off the ground instead of resting on it.

What to look for: A hammock sized for your height and sleep style — lying at a slight diagonal, not straight along the ridgeline, is what actually flattens you out — a fabric rated with real margin above your body weight, and an integrated bug net option if bugs are a factor.

Also pack
  • Tree-friendly suspension straps — wide webbing, never rope or wire
  • Ridgeline with carabiners or soft shackles
  • A structural ridgeline for hanging a light or small organizer

Warmth: underquilt & top insulation

With open air underneath you, whatever insulation compresses beneath your body stops working — warmth from below needs its own solution.

Illustration of a inflatable backpacking sleeping pad

Underquilt or sleeping pad

Hangs beneath the hammock as an underquilt, or sits inside it as a pad, to stop the cold air under you pulling heat out of your back — what hammock campers call 'cold-butt syndrome.'

What to look for: An underquilt rated at or below your expected low, wide enough to wrap the hammock's sides, or, as a cheaper start, an insulated pad shaped to stay put inside without shifting or leaving cold gaps.

Illustration of a rolled backpacking sleeping bag

Top quilt or sleeping bag

Covers you from above the same way it would in a tent; a top quilt sheds the hood and back zipper you don't need once an underquilt is handling the side facing the cold air.

What to look for: A comfort rating a little below your expected low, chosen honestly alongside your underquilt or pad's rating — the two work as one system, and warmth depends on getting both right.

Also pack
  • Hammock pillow, or a stuffed jacket used as one

Overhead & bug protection

A tarp keeps rain and wind off; a bug net keeps the bugs off. Neither is optional once conditions call for it — there's no tent wall to fall back on.

Illustration of a lightweight two-person backpacking tent

Rain tarp

Pitched above the hammock on its own ridgeline, a tarp is the hammock camper's roof — there's no floor to seal, only weather coming from above and the sides.

What to look for: Enough coverage to block wind-driven rain at a low, tight pitch — a smaller asymmetric cut saves weight, a larger 'winter' cut adds coverage on exposed sites. Practice pitching it taut at home first.

Illustration of a mosquito head net

Bug net

Either built into the hammock as a no-see-um mesh 'bug sock' or added as a separate net, it's the difference between sleeping and swatting all night in bug season.

What to look for: Mesh fine enough to stop no-see-ums, not just mosquitoes, an entry you can work in the dark, and, if it's an add-on, a fit matched to your specific hammock.

Also pack
  • Stakes & guylines for the tarp
  • Prusik loops or a tarp ridgeline organizer

Kitchen & water

Cooking and water treatment don't change from ground camping — a canister stove and one pot cover most backcountry meals.

Illustration of a small canister backpacking stove under a titanium pot

Backpacking stove

A compact canister stove boils water in a couple of minutes for dinners and hot drinks.

What to look for: A stable canister stove with usable simmer control and a quick boil, running on fuel you can find near the trailhead.

Illustration of a titanium backpacking cook pot and mug

Pot & mug

One lightweight pot doubles as your bowl; titanium or aluminum keeps the weight down.

What to look for: One pot sized to your meals, light metal like titanium or hard-anodized aluminum, with a lid that doubles as a plate.

Illustration of a squeeze-style backcountry water filter

Water filter

Non-negotiable in the backcountry — treats stream and lake water so you can refill along the trail instead of carrying it all.

What to look for: Fast flow, easy field cleaning, and a design that resists clogging on murky water.

Also pack
  • Fuel canister
  • Spork & lighter
  • Meals + snacks for each day
  • Food storage (canister/bag + hang line, separate from your sleeping hang)

Clothing & layers

Pack a layering system, not outfits: a base layer and a waterproof shell handle most conditions, day or night.

Illustration of a folded merino wool base-layer shirt

Base layer

Merino or synthetic against the skin wicks sweat and resists odor over multiple days — worn inside your quilt at night as much as on the trail by day.

What to look for: Merino or a merino blend for odor resistance, a close-but-not-tight fit, and a weight matched to the season.

Illustration of a neatly folded waterproof rain shell jacket

Rain shell

Waterproof, breathable protection from rain and wind on the trail, and a backup layer if you're sitting out under the tarp at camp.

What to look for: Genuinely waterproof rather than water-resistant, breathable, with a sealing hood and pit zips to vent on the move.

Also pack
  • Insulated camp jacket — also boosts warmth stuffed inside your quilt on a colder-than-expected night
  • Spare hiking socks
  • Camp/sleep clothes
  • Sun hat & sunglasses

Navigation, light & safety

Redundancy matters more overnight — carry navigation you can trust without a signal, and know how you'd get out if you needed to.

Illustration of a compact hiking headlamp

Headlamp

Essential after dark for cooking, rigging your hang, and finding a bug net zipper in the dark; bring spare batteries or a charge.

What to look for: Bright, comfortable, with a red mode for camp and enough spare power that you're not rationing light.

Illustration of a small hiking first-aid kit, open

First-aid kit

A slightly fuller kit than a day hike — blister care, your own meds and the basics, plus the knowledge to use them.

What to look for: Blister care, wound cleaning, your own reliable medication, and a small repair element like tape or a needle.

Also pack
  • Map + compass or GPS (offline)
  • Trekking poles (can double as tarp support in a pinch)
  • Whistle
  • Sunscreen & lip balm
  • Phone + power bank
  • Fire kit
  • Toilet kit — trowel, TP, waste bags (Leave No Trace)

How to adapt this setup

No good trees

Above treeline, in the desert, or on any stretch where trees are scarce or too far apart, a hammock can't hang. Carry a lightweight pad and groundsheet as backup, or plan your route around where the tree cover actually is.

Cold or shoulder season

Step up to a warmer-rated underquilt, add a warmer top quilt or bag, and look at a tarp with fuller coverage or doors to cut wind. Cold hammock camping is very doable, but it leans harder on the underquilt than any other single piece.

Buggy or humid conditions

An integrated or add-on bug net moves from nice-to-have to mandatory, and a well-vented tarp pitched a little higher helps with airflow on sticky nights without giving up rain protection.

Going ultralight

The suspension, tarp and underquilt are where the ounces hide — a minimal webbing suspension, a smaller tarp cut, and a well-chosen underquilt trim real weight. See the ultralight backpacking setup for the broader approach.

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Skipping the underquilt or pad — insulation compresses under your weight and you get cold from below even in a warm bag.
  • Hanging from dead or too-small trees, or using rope or wire straps instead of wide, tree-friendly webbing.
  • Pitching the tarp too high, too loose, or off-center so wind-driven rain still reaches the hammock.
  • Skipping the bug net in bug season and losing sleep to mosquitoes and no-see-ums instead.
  • Lying straight along the ridgeline instead of at a slight diagonal, then waking up sore.
  • Not carrying a backup plan on a route with sparse or unsuitable trees.

Make it yours

Frequently asked questions

How do I stay warm in a hammock?

Warmth comes from two separate pieces: an underquilt or pad handles the side facing the cold air below you, since your body weight compresses any insulation you're lying on until it stops working, and a top quilt or sleeping bag handles the air above. Skipping either one is the most common reason hammock campers get cold.

What is cold-butt syndrome?

It's the hammock camper's term for the cold that seeps up through the fabric beneath you because your own body weight has flattened whatever insulation is under you, so it stops trapping heat. An underquilt hung outside the hammock fabric — or a pad sized to stay put inside it — solves it.

Do I need two trees to hammock camp?

Yes — two sturdy, living trees spaced to suit your suspension, with clear ground underneath and no dead branches overhead. Scout your site before dark, use wide tree-friendly straps, and always carry a backup plan for terrain without good trees.

Is hammock camping better than tent camping?

Neither is universally better. Hammocks excel on rocky, rooty, sloped, or damp ground where a tent floor struggles, and many sleepers find them more comfortable; tents work anywhere, including treeless terrain, and don't require underquilt-level warmth planning.

Do hammocks need a bug net?

In bug season, or anywhere humid and buggy, yes — either a no-see-um mesh sock built into the hammock or a separate add-on net. Skip it in the wrong season or location and you'll spend the night swatting instead of sleeping.

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